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August 1977 - Page 46


The author's Santa Fe Bx-32. The modified sill, strap steps, wood running board, are excellent examples ofa little workgoingalong way.

Santa Fe Bx-32 C1ass
by P. J. Student
Modelers Association Newsletter D ick Hendrickson mentioned that the Bx-3 1, Bx-32, and Bx-36 cars are identical so you can build any one of these three classes from the following information.


T he Santa Fe Map and Name Train Slogan paint scheme for freight cars was introduced to the railroad industry in the September, 1940, issue of Railway Mech anical Engineer. The model for this new paint scheme was a Bx-32 box car, 148304 specifically. The April, 194 7 , issue of the Railway Equi] men t Register shows that this car was in a series of 1734 cars (1482000149933). 1723 of these cars were still on the roster in 194 7 . Back i n a n early issue of the Santa Fe

Begin by removing the running board and upper door guides from an undeco rated or stripped Athearn 40' box car. Remove the gusset plates at the bottom of the sides and the sill steps. Leave the polling pocket tabs alone for now. Next, shave off all the end detail. I find it is best to use a number 5 or 6 X-acto knife handle with a number 18 blade but that may just be a personal preference. Hold the body against the edge of your work bench and shove the knife into it. Remove any remaining material with 60-grit sand paper or Emery cloth or a 12" bastard file. Take a pair of Silver Streak (now Walthers) Youngstown ends and clean the castings of flash. The bead at the top needs to be removed. Wrap about three layers of masking tape around the castings to protect the rib detail and file off the bead with about a 6" single cut mill file. This will leave a nice, polished surface.

Using your favorite contact cement, cement the ends in place centered from side to side and flush on the bottom. Set the body aside while the cement sets. While you have the contact cement out add additional weight to the top of the car floor to meet your weight specifica tions. Athearn cars come with a "straight" center sill while the prototype has a "fish belly" center sill. Begin by removing the cross-bearers and air brake equipment castings from the underframe. Save the air reservoir. Remove the flange from the center sill. Make two web plates as shown in Figure 1 from .015" ABS or sheet styrene. Join these to the center sill keep ing the tops flush with a solvent type cement. After the joint has set, notch the center sill to the profile of the new web plates at the bolster. Cut a piece of .010" styrene 27" x 28'-6". Begin joining it to the web plates on the slope of one bolster. After this joint has set, bend the flange plate down and join it to the straight part of the web plate. After this joint has set, finish by joining it to the other sloping part of the web plate. Set the underframe assembly aside and return to the body.

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