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December 1978 - Page 13



cemented in place to set flush. The frame around the opening was made from .025 mm styrene. Rather than build one up, a shortened hatch from an Athearn GP7 could be used. Make the headlight brackets from .010" styrene according to Figure 3 ; once cemented in place, this rather fragile look ing piece is quite strong. Place the Mars light and whichever headlight needed on the bracket before attaching the bracket to the shell. Use a cyanoacrylate adhesive to fasten the spark arrestors in place. Thin styrene may be used to back up the holes in the battery boxes and the holes filled with body putty. Flat tooth picks are very handy for working the putty into the limited space . When dry, use fine jeweler's files and sandpaper to smooth and shape the putty. Using No. 500 or 600 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, wet-sand the reworked areas to remove all tool marks and scratches. (This should be done in all areas where material is removed or putty applied to insure a smooth surface.) If you're modeling a freight-only unit, fill the two front-most notches in the frame with plastic and putty . If modeling a unit with a steam generator, fill only the first notch since the second one is used for the water filler valve. Check Figure 4 and drill the roof for the various details which must be added. On the nose, the lift rings are located in the corners of the panel opposite from the way Athearn has cast them. If your unit has a steam generator, use the dimen sions in the Details West package (SG 1 18) for placing the various parts. Note that the radio antenna is relocated if steam generator equipment is present. See Table I for units which had the roof-mounted rotary beacons. If a rotary beacon is used, make a 12" square base from .0 30" sty rene and cement it in the center of the roof. Make a piece of conduit from some .0 10" wire and run it back 20" from the beacon base along the center of the roof and insert it into the roof. Install the remaining lift rings in the same locations as the original Athearn cast-on ones. The original order of units, Q 325-344, use the eyelet type of lift ring on the sides of the radiator; the rest of the units used the flat tab-type on the sides of the radiator. The location of horns in Figure 4 is for the single-bell Wabco- style horn . The closest available style is on the Model Power E-7. Unfortunately, it is cast in a vinyl plastic and paint just won't stick to it!. 1. up making copies from brass. The two-bell-style horn is the Leslie Supertyfon S2 made by Detail Associates. The two styles of horn may be used sep arately or mixed indiscriminently ; the only way to be sure is to check photos of the specific unit being modeled.


"Front" details are shown in this photo, taken in Denver, Colorado, in May of 1969. Notice the "Mars" headlight under the warning ligh t and dual sets of MU recepticles on either side of the coupler. Both features are unique to C&S power. Hoi Wagner photo.

The same applies for the cab roof vent. The position is shown in Figure 4, but photos of specific units should be checked since a minority of these units had this vent. Detail Associates VT-1901 or Details West No. 121 are correct for this piece. If sunshades are required, they may be made from .010" styrene or commercial ones used and installed now. A very good all-weather window can be made from plexiglass. Use Figure 5 and cut a .100" thick piece of plexiglass

to size. Overlay this block with styrene strips to represent the window frames. It is easier to install these strips slightly over size and trim to final size when dry ; use Plastic-Weld by Plastruct to secure styrene to plexiglass. After the window frames are dry and trimmed to proper size, mask the window areas, either with thin strips of tape or liquid masking material, and spray the piece black. When the paint dries, peel off the masking material, and the all-weather window is complete. Set

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