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January 2002 - Page 41


Use a damp cloth or sponge to pat the sign down into the mortar lines. paper and sand away! Since the paper sign is so thin, after about ten strokes or so, the sign is worn away leaving only brick. If you would like to weather the sign even more, you can lightly moisten your fingertip with water and gently rub bits of paper off of the sign. When doing this, take great care, as large chunks of sign can sometimes come right off! Sanding causes very fine dust to build up on the sign and surrounding wall. To get rid of this dust, I brush a very light black wash mixture all over the entire wall, including the sign. My black wash is made with Deltas CeramCote acrylic black paint and water. I use paint rather than India ink because its a lot easier to vary the shades of the wash mixture. I make sure not to get the sign wet, just damp, as getting the now very thin sign wet will cause it to raise from the wall and possibly peel off. When the wash dries, apply any dry brushing as needed. The following sites have all kinds of i nformation on signs. They are EXCELLENT resources for anyone wanting to model painted on signs: http://www.forgotten-ny.com click on the ADS link http://www.trainweb.org/tylick/signintro. htmhttp://www.frankjump.com http://www.trevinocircle.com click on the Free Ad Signs link

Before gluing the sign to the wall, I make sure it is painted and weathered.

My alternate method involves putting white glue right on the sign. I then lightly smear it on with a finger. Rough handling could cause the sign to rip at this point. much with the first technique, try my alternate method. First Method: N ow we come to the secret! Weve all been told that using fullstrength white glue and covering either the back of the sign or the wall, then affixing the sign to the wall is the way to go, right? Wrong! Take a shallow plate or dish and fill it up with a small amount of water, enough to cover the sign. Then put about half as much white glue as water in the plate. Mix the two together thoroughly. Place the sign face up in the water/glue mixture. Some ink will run off of the sign, but the signs lettering will stay intact. The ink shouldnt run or bleed all over the sign; some will just lift off. So, if your glue/water mixture turns red right after you put a red sign in it, dont worry! Let the sign soak in the mixture for about five minutes. If you are putting the sign on a plastic wall, all you need to do is set it on the wall, tap it lightly with a slightly damp sponge or cloth and let it dry. If on the other hand, your wall is plaster or Hydrocal, you should lightly coat the area of the wall with some full-strength white glue, then put the sign in place. This is done because the plaster/ Hydrocal soaks up a lot of the water from the paper, and causes it not to stick. Alternate Method: Before I print the sign, I flip it vertically, so it is backwards! I then print it out and let it dry completely. Then I smear full-strength white glue all over the printed side of the sign. I then place the sign glue-side-down onto the pre-painted brick wall. Both Methods Continued: I tend to be very impatient when building, so I speed u p my drying process with a heat gun. I w ouldnt recommend this unless youve played with your heat gun before and understand what the slightest amount of heat can do to a plastic brick wall! When the sign is thoroughly dry, and I mean completely dry, take 400-grit sand -

The sign after a little bit of rubbing and sanding.

JANUARY 2002

MODEL RAILROADING 41

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