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June 2001 - Page 25

correct orientation of classification lights as are found on most C630s, and they light up according to direction. This means that in the reverse direction, the inboard lights will light up red, and in the forward direction either the center green, or outboard yellow classification lights will be illuminated according to how the modeler sets the dip switches on the lighting circuit board. In order to make the classification lights correct for a PRR unit, the lights on either side of the center ones would have to be removed. Thats the easy part. The next thing that needs to happen is the reconfiguration of the LEDs on the circuit board so that the red LED now lights up the center position instead of the inboard positions. I did not elect to try and accomplish this, as I did not want to mess up the lighting circuit board. Electronics is not my strong suit, so I will leave this conversion to someone else more talented in this area. I hope all you Pennsy purists will forgive me, and if any of you have a good solution to the classification light problem please let the rest of us know about it. Detailing of this model is fairly straightforward, and not difficult. First we will complete all work on the body, then the pilots, and finish up with the chassis detailing. You will notice that this follows the basic layout of the model. The body is separate from the w alkways and pilots. This makes break ing down the work into areas much easier. B egin by disassembling the model down into its basic components. This will include the body, walkway, cab, and chassis. Further, go ahead and remove the truck sideframes so that they can be more easily worked on when we get to them.

Close-up of the rear end of the model prior to painting. handbrake casting in the notch on the nose. Stewart picked a unique notch configuration for their C630. From my research, I can only find PRR C630s with this type of two step notch. Most C630s have a single angled notch. This works out great for PRR fans, because we need to add a different hand brake anyway. After you have removed the existing hand-brake detail, snap the body into the walkway and mark where the top of the sub-base is in the notch. Mount a brakestand from a Miniatures by Eric CPR brake & stand (#B10) in the notch with the bottom being flush with the mark you made. Snap the body into the walkway again for a test fit, and check to see that everything lines up as it should. Then mount a Precision Scale brakewheel (#3959) to the brakestand. This is not exactly correct, but it is very close and definitely captures the look of the prototype brake equipment. had to ream out the mounting hole at a 45 angle with a 3/64" drill bit to get it to mount at the correct angle. Cut off the mounting stem of the air horn so that it will be flush with the bottom of the mounting bracket, then mount the horn in the hole with CA. The top of the horn should be pretty much flush with the top edge of the roof. Finally, a dd DA cab wind deflectors (#2312) on either side of the cab side windows. You are now done with the body portion.

Body Details
Start by drilling all of the grabiron and l ift-ring dimples on the body with a #79 drill. Starting with the rear grabs going up to the top of the long hood. Starting at the bottom, the first, second and third grabs are Detail Associates (DA) #2202 drop grabs. The fourth and fifth grabs are Westerfield 18" straight grabs. Moving to the nose area, the grabs on the top and right side of the nose are DA #2202 drop grabs. You will have to bend your own corner grabs out of .012 brass wire. The lift rings come in two different sizes. Most are smaller, and are available from Detail Associates, where as the two lift rings between the exhaust stack and radiator are larger. In both cases I bent my own out of .012 brass wire. Secure all grabs and lift rings with thin cyanoacrylate (CA) from the inside the shell. Once the CA has completely dried, cut off the grabs and lift rings flush with the inside of the shell. This is so there will be no interference with the circuit board when the shell is attached to the chassis. While we are working on the roof area, go ahead and drill out the exhaust stack. Clean up the hole with small files. While you have your files out go ahead and do the only modification that is needed for this model. That is, remove the existing

Pilot Details
Moving on to the walkway portion of the model, we need to add all of the necessary detail to the pilots. Begin by drilling the dimples for the cut-lever bars and pilot grabs with a #79 drill bit. Add a DA cut lever bar (#2205) using lift rings to secure it to each pilot face. Then bend the long pilot grabs out of .012 brass wire, mount them to each pilot and secure with thin CA. Mount a DA ALCO drop step (#1405) to the anticlimber with two eyebolts. Add a Details West (DW) trainline hose & angle cock (#AH-268) and bend down in a 90 angle to the pilot face. Refer to the model photos. Finally, add DA MU hoses (#1508). A dding the MU hoses is an area where referring to prototype photos of the engine you are modeling really comes in handy. This is due to the fact that 6322 had a different MU hose arrangement than most of the other PRR C630s I saw photos of. On t he model shown, the arrangement is as follows: Looking at the pilot there are four hoses to the right of the coupler, and one with three pipes to the left of the coupler. Most of the other Pennsy C630s had just the opposite arrangement. With the pilot detailing finished we move

Cab Details
Moving on to the cab, add a DA Sinclair radio antenna to the cab roof, two-thirds of the way back from the front on the engi neers side. Drill and mount DA windshield wipers (#2314). We will add the window glass after we have weathered the model. Next, you need to add an air horn over the engineers front window. Start by drilling t wo #67 holes for the air-horn mounting bracket supplied with the model over the engineers window. I drilled mine so that the bracket would mount level. After I had already finished adding the air horn I found a photo that showed the orientation of this bracket better, and it should be angled to match the air horn. So, dont make the same assumption and mistake that I did. Next, add an Overland three-chime air horn (#9007). I

JUNE 2001


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