Magazines » Model Railroading - August 2003 » Page 22 Text View Magazine View

of 72

August 2003 - Page 22

stock on the front and sides just above the channels. The locking mechanism also mounts to the back of this flat stock. Make two 54 " long strips for each hopper side from .015 x .040 styrene strip. Before mounting, notch one end of each strip to clear the opening socket. The notch is approximately 3" from the end, 1.5" deep and 12" long. Mount the strip so the top corner, away from the discharge end, is even with the hopper bay corner and trim at an angle following the profile of the hopper bay. Then, make three 60" long front hopper strips using .015 x .040. Center the oversized strips matching the ends with the side strips and secure in place, then trim the ends to match the side strips and use green putty to fill any gaps. I simulated the manually locking mechanism for each gate with a 42" long piece of .025 styrene rod. Trim and bevel each end to sit on the angled side plates just behind each discharge gate (see Photos 3 & 4). According to NMRA standards, the recommended weight for the finished car should be 4.75 oz. Since the bottom of the hoppers have the openings for the brake linkage, I created a false bottom in each hopper with .040 styrene sheet, cut 6' x 6', and .100 channel in-between each hopper, secured with CA. The A-Line weights were secured with Elmer s white glue. The weight was covered liberally and allowed to dry for a few days. Then, the two bay dividers were installed into the slots on the inside of the body (see Photo 5).


Underbody detail with new Enterprise discharge gates installed. Note the strips added above the gates and the rods to simulate the gate locking mechanism.

Plano Roofwalk
As you probably know by now, I am a Plano addict (I am told that there is no known cure.) Plano produces a perfect round-hole (Morton) roofwalk set for the InterMountain car. Start by filling the holes in the roof for the kit-supplied roofwalk with green putty. Do not fill the holes located next to the roof trough as these are for the hatch-cover hinges. Follow the Plano instructions for marking the pilot points using the Plano-supplied templates and T-pin, except for the riser #3 locations. The risers under the roofwalk extension need to be both #3s. On

Added weight secured with white glue.


the crossover frame drill template, I used only the four inner hole locations. After removing the template, I marked the four outer holes aligned with the inner points right on the edge of the center-raised center section. After all the pilot points had been marked, each pilot point was drilled with a #78 drill bit. Install the roof, making sure it is mounted with the locator holes for the hatch hinges on the left when looking at the brake end. Fill any gaps where the roof meets the car ends with green putty. The InterMountain kits come with two different sets of hatch covers. Since Pullman-Standard switched from ribbed to smooth hatch covers sometime in 1977, I was unsure which style of hatch covers the cars had when built. Jim Kinkaid was kind enough to look at builders photos and confirm the cars were delivered with ribbed hatch covers. Install the ribbed hatch covers and hinges. Install the risers per the Plano instructions, following the numbers on the template except for the risers under the walkway extension, as previously noted. Use two #3 risers under each walkway extension, shortening one leg as necessary. Then, install the crossover frames, making sure to keep the crossover platform centered (see Photo 6).

End Detail and Assembly
Starting with the brake air tank, remove the plastic air lines and drill two #78 holes where the old plastic brake lines were attached to the tank. Make two triangular styrene brackets from .030 x .125 styrene strips using a NorthWest Short Line Choppers 60 angle. Then remove just a little bit of the angle tip with a razor blade before securing to the tank. Mount the tank assembly on the left side of the brake end.

Plano risers, hatch covers and roof installed. Note the roof seams filled and sanded with green putty.



Added December 15, 2010 - Share