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September 2005 - Page 23

Side view showing the added retaining valve and three carbody holes.

Non-retaining valve side.

End/side view of detailed car before dents were added. On the top rails of the car, there are 26 pairs of dimples for mounting the load anchor loops. Drill each dimple with a #80 drill, but only drill about .040 deep. Using a small needlenose pliers, bend each tab 90 and insert a load anchor into the pair of holes and secure in place, with the anchor loops facing the interior of the car. Then, install the flat weight (see Photos 1-6). having bulged and dented sides are a must, especially since the prototype for my car would have been over 12 years old for my modeling era. I was not sure how to create this look until I remembered an article by Brad Pitzer that appeared in the December 2001 Model Railroader. Mr. Pitzer used a soldering iron and dabs of CA to create the bulges and dents. Not wanting to try a soldering iron on a resin body, I decided to use just the CA. Using the prototype picture as a reference, start by placing dabs, some small

and some larger, of CA on each panel. Use a spare piece of styrene rod to move around the CA until the desired shape is obtained, repeating as necessary.

Painting and Decaling
Wash the car carefully with soap and water and dry thoroughly before priming with Primer Gray. After priming, paint the complete car with Erie Lackawanna Maroon. After the paint has dried, spray with Testors Glosscote for decaling.

Adding Dents to the Sides
Unless you are modeling a new gondola,

Decaled car before weathering.


Decaled car after flat clear acrylic.



Added December 2, 2010 - Share