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September 2005 - Page 22


1
12 "

" 12
6 "

" 24

30"

Upper Piece

1 " Lower Piece

Completed underframe.
Connector Bars

" 12
" 3

" 3

Underframe detail. Note the screw-on coupler covers, brake levers and air piping.

2

3

Figure
The retaining valve, from an InterMountain PS-1 boxcar detail sprue, was secured to a .030 x .030 x 4" long styrene block mounted on the small cross member in front of the control valve. Using .012 brass wire, form an air line from the retaining valve to the control valve. Trim the small tackboards, also from the PS-1 detail sprue, to 9" long x 4" high and thin before installing on the first side panel of each side. The defect tube is .035 diameter styrene rod, 9 " long, mounted on the third panel with the B-end on your left.

Brake-end detail. Note the homemade coupler lift bars and the added chain below the brakewheel. on each side. Drill a #61 hole just to the right of the second rib to the right of center, centered just above the third (from the bottom) rivet head and 6" away from the rib. Drill a #77 hole just to the left of the first rib left of center, centered just above the bottom rivet head and 6" away from the rib. Drill a second #77 hole just to the right of the first rib to the right of center, centered just above the bottom rivet head and 6 " away from the rib (see Photo 4). The small hole on each side that is in front of the control valve and the air reservoir will be used for the air release rods. Using a #77 drill, drill through the small hole in front of the air reservoir to create a hole in the air reservoir support. Using .008 brass wire, form a small loop at one end by wrapping it around a #77 drill bit and trim away the excess wire. Feed the nonlooped end of the wire through the small hole by the air reservoir and through the air reservoir support, over the center sill, and through the eyebolt on the control valve. Secure in place with the loop vertical and tight against the body before trimming at the eyebolt. Form a second loop from .008 brass wire and feed through the small hole in front of the control valve and trim to end at the eyebolt and secure in place, again with the loop vertical and tight against the body.

Body Details
Using a #80 bit, drill the holes in the sides and ends of the body for the end ladders, grabirons, roping loops and brake platform, using the dimples as your guide. Since the body is very thin, the holes can be drilled only to a depth of .030. Before installing the hand brake, add a small hook at the bottom with .008 brass wire for brake chain. Add a second hook, made from .008 brass wire, at the end of the brake fulcrum below the hand brake. Place the ends of a chain, approximately 30" long, over the small hooks and secure in place, making sure the chain is vertical. Then, install the brake platform. A brakewheel from InterMountains PS-5277 boxcar brake detail sprue was substituted as it is a better match for the prototype brakewheel. Install the coupler lift bar brackets on each end. In looking at prototype pictures, the originally coupler lift bars seem to match the Detail Associates coupler lift bar (#6215) while later cars have homemade coupler lift bar assemblies, probably shop replacements. I decided to include these homemade replacement coupler lift bar assemblies on the model. Each assembly has an upper and lower piece and are connected to each other by two connector bars, all formed from .012 brass wire. Form the two assemblies and install on each end per the Figure, with the lower piece placed just underneath each coupler, approximately where the coupler trip pins are located. Then, install the corner steps.

22 MODEL RAILROADING

SEPTEMBER 2005

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