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May 2005 - Page 35


balled the locations of all these, making sure to keep everything level and symmetrical.

Details for the F3A
I began the F3A in much the same way as the FA2 by sanding the mold parting lines on the nose. After that I moved to the roof where I drilled #77 holes in the dimples cast into the shell and installed DA 2206 lift rings with a drop of CA cement. I installed the same horns on the roof that I used on the FA2. After that I drilled holes for windshield wipers and long grabs over the windshield. Although I held off on installing the wipers until after painting, I did bend a pair of grabs from .015 diameter brass wire and installed them. The rear of the F3A required a bit more work than that of the FA2 since it does not come with a diaphragm. First I put together an American Limited 9910 diaphragm and installed it over the rear door. I then installed a DW 162 backup light to the left of the door and lift rings over the door. The lift rings I used were left over from a DW 309 super detail set and are not listed separately in their catalog. As a substitute you could use a DA 1102 set. The nose of the F3A got the same treatment as the FA2. I drilled a hole on each side of the nose door and installed a DW lift ring. I then drilled #77 holes for the grabs above the lift rings, created a pair using .015 diameter wire, and glued them in place with a touch of CA cement. On the pilot I drilled mounting holes for the DW 295 MU hoses and one for the DW 267 train line air hose. I drilled out the dimples and installed handmade .015 brass wire grabs on the anticlimber. For the coupler cut lever I made my own from .015 brass wire and small pieces of brass, however, Details West now offers a cast-metal one (DW 316). Finally, I used a #17 knife blade to remove the cast-on class lights, then drilled #53 holes for MV 22 lenses. On the engineers side of the cab, I drilled mounting holes and installed handmade .015 brass wire grabs on each side of the cab door. The long step located directly in front of the cab door was made from a piece of .060 styrene angle glued in place using a little CA cement. Using .015 brass wire I made a long hand grab and installed it under the left cab window. I then installed a DA 2202 drop grab right on the curve of the nose in front of the left windshield frame and then another grab halfway between the first one and the long step. Finally, I installed three equallyspaced DA 2225 straight grabs on the nose in front of the windshield.

I included this side-by-side photo of the completed engineers side of both the FA2 and F3A to emphasize the strong family resemblance created by the various appliances. Note the wiper-blade patterns on the windshields.

Heres a similar side-by-side view of the rear of the two units. trucks with a set of Tichy 3052 caboose trucks. Afterwards I washed the model thoroughly and let it dry. stripes: one at the roofline, one at the waistline, and two near the bottom of the car sides. While you could paint these on I decided to use some white stripes left over from another set of decals, cutting them to a scale 1" height. I hand painted the marker lamps yellow but waited until after weathering to glue in the colored jewels. The decals for this project present a special problem since none are commercially available. I developed my own set using Adobe Illustrator, but other graphics programs should work just as well. For the roadname lettering I used a Times New Roman font set at 14 pt, stretched to a prototype length of 17' 6" for the lettering. The numerals on the diesels were also 14 pt, and 12 and 10 pt for the numerals on the caboose a small 10 pt V&O is required for the end of the caboose. The herald

Paint and Decals
V&O diesels of the era I model had a bright, slate blue color. Allen used Floquil dark and light blue mixed in equal parts, however I was not able to locate these locally. Instead I used MODELflex paint and eyeballed the color, mixing three parts Conrail Blue to one part Wabash Blue. I washed the models thoroughly, and after they had dried I gave them a good coat of the blue mixture. I painted the caboose MODELflex Caboose Red. Next I taped off the body and painted the main roof and the frame black the roof of the cupola was left red. The caboose paint scheme required several white

The Caboose
Since the Athearn caboose came decorated I pulled out all the window-glass inserts and stripped the model in Chameleon paint stripper. There are only a couple small details to add. First, I installed a pair of CS 375 marker lamps on the rear side, near the roofline. I then replaced the more modern

MAY 2005

MODEL RAILROADING 35

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