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outline on the shell. Using a #11 knife blade I cut an opening in the roof slightly smaller

The nose of the FA2 has a number of important details that give the cab diesels a strong family resemblance. Those big lift rings add a strong utilitarian appearance.

The grabs up and over the nose add a lot of interesting detail to the models and were a welcome addition for the maintenance crews.

The rear of the FA2 only required adding a few details such as the MU hoses and backup light.

than the outline of the dynamic-brake insert. I made the opening smaller since its a lot easier to enlarge the opening to get a good fit, than it is to try to fill large gaps with an oversized opening. To enlarge the opening I filed it with a large flat file, checking the fit periodically. Once I had a friction fit, I installed the plastic casting and flowed in a little Ambroid liquid cement from the inside. The other big change to the FA2 shell involved replacing the exhaust stack. Actually, in the first release of FA2s the model makers created a totally odd part, which looked sort of like an old rug beater, for the exhaust. I removed it and filled the hole with putty, sanded that flat, drilled a hole and glued on the correct CS 460 turbo-exhaust casting. After that I removed all the plastic lift rings and installed metal Detail Associates (DA) 1106 in their place. The horn was also wrong, so I removed it, puttied the hole, drilled new holes and installed some plastic horns left over from Stewart F-units. If you dont have any of these then a Custom Finishing (CF) 215 would be a good choice. Moving to the rear of the unit I added Details West (DW) 295 MU hose clusters and a DW 162 backup light I added the MV Products (MV) 25 lens after painting and weathering were completed. I just eyeballed the locations based on photographs. The nose and engineers side of the nose required the largest number of details. To begin with, I drilled a hole on each side of the nose door and installed a DW lift ring, left over from a DW 309 super detail kit, with a drop of CA cement. As a substitute you could use a DA 1102 lift ring. Its important to install these first in order to accurately place the grabirons that are installed above them. I drilled #77 holes for these grabs, then created a pair using .015 diameter wire, and glued them in place with a touch of CA cement. Next I moved down to the pilot and drilled mounting holes for the DW 295 MU hoses and one for the DW 267 train line air hose. I left the small plastic grabs on the anticlimber. To finish off the nose I used a #17 knife blade to remove the cast-on class lights, then drilled #53 holes so that later I could mount MV 22 lenses. On the engineers side of the cab, I left the cast plastic grabs in place since they are a reasonably nice, if not a bit oversized, casting. Most of the other details here involve the grabs that provide crew access to the top of the nose. The long step located directly in front of the cab door needs to be installed first since it provides an important reference for locating the grabirons. I made mine from a piece of .060 styrene angle (Evergreen 291) that I glued in place using a little CA cement. I then installed a DA 2202 drop grab right on the curve of the nose in front of the left windshield frame and then another grab halfway between the first one and the long step. Using .015 brass wire I made a long hand grab and installed it under the left cab window. Finally, I installed three

equally spaced DA 2225 straight grabs on the nose in front of the windshield. I eye-

Like the FA2, the F3A nose required a lot of details. I especially like the way the handmade coupler cut lever turned out. I based it on the one that comes with the Highliners F-unit kit, but the now-available DW cast part is a much easier solution.

The engineers side of the nose is almost identical to that on the FA2.

On the F3A I had to add a diaphragm and lift rings in addition to the MU hoses and backup light.

34 MODEL RAILROADING

MAY 2005

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