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  • Paper Possibilities

    These Printed Paper Buildings Make Perfect Backgrounds For 0 Scale Railroads Or Quick Temporary Structures For HO Modelers. If You Enjoy The Techniques Of Paper Modeling, You Might Want To Try A Complete Paper Locomotive Kit For Your Mantlepiece!

    1. A paper model kit can be a welcome diversion from the "normal" wood or plastic model kit. Dozens of full-color printed paper castles, historic buildings, ships, airplanes, and even steam locomotives are available from John Hathaway Imported Hobbies, 410 W 6th St., San Pedro, Calif. 9073 1. The only tools required are a pair of scissors, a dull knife blade (for scribing "fold" lines), a sharp knife or single edge razor blade, a steel straight edge, and white glue.

    2. Hathaway's paper model kits are nothing more than full-color printed paper sheets with all of the parts for the building or locomotive marked with lines for cutting and folding into a completed model. The precise detail and accurate fit of the parts makes them far more than toys, however. This sheet is part of the "Canyon City" kit that includes all 20 structures shown in the photos of the old western town. The buildings are 1/90 scale; close enough to the 1/87 scale of all HO railroad equipment. The complete set of nine sheets to build all 20 buildings is $4.05 plus 35 cent shipping charge.

    3. Each of the parts for the individual buildings are numbered on both the front and back of the printed paper sheet. An exploded view of each of the buildings indicates where each of the parts must fit and shows how each of the folds must be made on each piece.

    1001 Model Railroading Ideas - Fall 1971 - Page 39


    4. The long straight edges of the parts can be cut with scissors to remove the part from the paper sheet. Save the sharp angle cuts and vee-shaped notch cuts for later after the part is trimmed from the sheet.

    5. Use a sharp hobby knife or single edge razor blade to trim in to the tight corners. The lines on the sides and faces of the paper parts are marked to indicate which ones are "fold" lines and which ones should be cut. The paper stock is about the thickness of a file folder.

    6. & 7. Dull the point of a hobby knife blade so it can be used to scribe the "fold" lines on the paper without slicing in to the surface. Use a steel straight edge to guide your knife for all cutting and scribing. It is best to nick the extreme end of the "fold" lines where the part is to be folded back (like the outside corners of this building) and then, using the two nicks as a guide, scribe the rest o f the "fold" line on the backside of the part to avoid scraping away the color from the outside corner. 8. Fold the parts over a table edge or block of wood to be sure that the folds are straight and even. The exploded drawings in the kit instructions show just which way each fold is to be made.

    1001 Model Railroading Ideas - Fall 1971 - Page 40 1001 Model Railroading Ideas - Fall 1971 - Page 41


    9. Apply a thin layer of white glue to the tabs that join one part to the next and allow it to dry just enough to be tacky before pressing the parts together for a permanent joint.

    10. Some of the really small detail parts have tabs that are used to hold the part while applying the glue and positioning it on the building. These tabs can then be trimmed away after the glue is completely dry.

    11. You can use a black felt-tipped pen to touch up any white lines that show along the fold lines or the joints between the parts to completely disguise the fact that the building is actually made of paper.

    12. Spray the completed model with several thin coats of Pactra's "Flat" clear paint to seal off the surface so any future accumulations of dirt or air-born grease can be wiped away without damaging the paper.

    1001 Model Railroading Ideas - Fall 1971 - Page 42


    13. & 14. The only flaw in the detail of the completed model is the fact that the surface features; like the windows, doors, and "wood" joint lines are not three-dimensional. The printing and colors are so life-like, though, that even this lack would go unnoticed if the models were placed along the back edge of your railroad's table. The buildings can also serve as a temporary full-size "mockup" for a yet-to-be-built "town" of wood or plastic kit structures.

    15. & 16. The complete "Canyon City" cutout town includes all twenty of these buildings with a suggested plan and detail ideas to duplicate this "frontier" town scene.

    1001 Model Railroading Ideas - Fall 1971 - Page 43


    17. 18. & 19. HO scale men, horses, and details of the 1880 period are sold by Preiser and Mertens through most hobby shops. These figures add enough detail to the "paper" town to give it surprising realism.

    20. & 21. John Hathaway's line of imported paper buildings includes dozens of European castles and houses in either 1/120 or 1/300 scale at prices ranging from 40 cents to $4.95. A complete catalog is available at no charge if you include a stamped, self-addressed, legal-size envelope.

    22. & 23. This "American Woodburning Engine" is one of the best (and most complex) of the Hathaway full-color printed paper model kits. The completed model is about 21-inches long (approx. 1/72 scale) and sells for $3.00. 24. The most famous of the British steam locomotives are also available as printed paper kits including a "Flying Scotsman. " Every piece of this model is made from the full-color printed paper parts in the $3.00 kit.

    1001 Model Railroading Ideas - Fall 1971 - Page 44 1001 Model Railroading Ideas - Fall 1971 - Page 45

    Article Details

    • Original Author 1001 Model Railroading Ideas
    • Source 1001 Model Railroading Ideas
    • Publication Date Fall 1971

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  • Martin Stierlen
    Martin Stierlen Paper structures can be a lot of help in planning. I use them as stand-ins for tests. One of my friends here in Germany has a modular layout with ALL the structures printed on paper, cut out and glued on cardstock - Chicago. Of course, as an archiect, he ...  more
    July 12, 2011 - 1 likes this